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Old 08-28-2020, 02:52 AM   #141
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Outlaw 37LS
State: Texas
Posts: 18
THOR #19932
Quote:
Originally Posted by 16ACE27 View Post
But it would be so interesting to hear your faulty logic and credentials to support that logic.

I've done front end alignments since 1975 as well as replacing worn/defective steering and suspension parts. I first became an NIASE Certified Mechanic in 1977.

When properly installed, (anti) sway bars do not affect ride height, nor are they part of the steering geometry - therefore they will have no affect on toe, camber or caster.

Now if you improperly installed a sway bar with different sized links on the two ends so that it is loaded and puts a static tilt on the vehicle; that would affect alignment.

But changing the link location equally on both sides puts no load on the sway bar and does nothing to change alignment.
I'm gonna have to go with 16ACE27 on the alignment, even though his experience seems somewhat limited ��. I built some extension plates to drop the bar to the original geometry, took all of the bolts in the sway bar system completely out, Loctite on every bolt upon replacement, torqued all of them to 66 lbs. I am taking a 800 mile round trip this weekend and look forward to the better ride. I'll know as soon as I pull ou of the driveway if the "clunking", "popping", noise stopped. Thanks again for all of the help.
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Old 09-02-2020, 06:40 PM   #142
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Outlaw 37LS
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THOR #19932
My results

So after mounting the plates and checking all torque settings, I made a 400 mile trip. I still had the popping. While at the park, I put the front back to stock and re-torqued all bolts front and rear. Had some popping when I arrived home. Soooo .... I found how to check and calibrate my torque wrench
( https://www.youtube.com/watch?reload=9&v=XaqBA-xSGbc ).
As it turns out, my torque wrench was off by 7.5Nm. All of that being said, for whatever reason, when I move my front end links, the angle is quite severe. More so then what I see in photos here. I believe that I will be determining how to get longer end links that are the proper weight rating and long enough to allow the bar to remain at stock position without the addition of plates and still use the rear holes.
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Old 09-03-2020, 03:40 AM   #143
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Damon Daybreak
State: New Mexico
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THOR #19133
Yes, the angle is quite severe. Many, on the IRV2 forum, who have done the CHF used the stock links, the angle only comes into play when lifting the rig. The sway bar contacts the leaf spring, but doesn't when driving. Some have purchased Helwig adjustable links, replacing the Helwig bushings and bolts with the ford items, and some others, like me, lengthened our links. I bought a length of 1/2" black pipe, cut 2 sections about 12" long, and then cut the links and had everything welded together to get a 14 1/2" length. (IIRC). The 1/2 pipe is just the right size for the link to slide into, and welding both ends is strong enough. I drilled holes in both ends so the welder could weld the link thru the hole and make it a bit stronger.
Link to a picture of my extended links
https://www.irv2.com/forums/attachme...8&d=1591644249
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Old 09-03-2020, 05:26 AM   #144
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No popping with my plates. They have been on for three years. Torqued to 66 ft lb and blue loctite

I also removed the sway bar completely and lubed the bushings with poly lube. Bushing brackets also torqued to 66 ft lb

JerryClick image for larger version

Name:	20170224_104517.jpg
Views:	39
Size:	62.3 KB
ID:	25912
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Old 09-04-2020, 12:17 AM   #145
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
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Originally Posted by HarryS View Post
Yes, the angle is quite severe. Many, on the IRV2 forum, who have done the CHF used the stock links, the angle only comes into play when lifting the rig. The sway bar contacts the leaf spring, but doesn't when driving. Some have purchased Helwig adjustable links, replacing the Helwig bushings and bolts with the ford items, and some others, like me, lengthened our links. I bought a length of 1/2" black pipe, cut 2 sections about 12" long, and then cut the links and had everything welded together to get a 14 1/2" length. (IIRC). The 1/2 pipe is just the right size for the link to slide into, and welding both ends is strong enough. I drilled holes in both ends so the welder could weld the link thru the hole and make it a bit stronger.
Link to a picture of my extended links
https://www.irv2.com/forums/attachme...8&d=1591644249
My link isn't straight, it has an "S" bend offset. I can't tell from the picture if yours is the same, if so did you bend the pipe to the same offset? What wall thickness is the pipe if you recall?
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Old 09-04-2020, 04:20 PM   #146
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That's interesting. The "s" bend links are the ones that seem to cause issues with the CHF. They are the only ones that have broken having done the CHF.
You really can't lengthen them, and I'm not sure if you can change them out for a straight link. Ford, on a couple model years, put the "S" bend link in, not sure why.
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Old 09-05-2020, 03:51 PM   #147
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Outlaw 37LS
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THOR #19932
chf update

So what I have learned here and in doing my CHF, is yet another example of the devil being in the details ! While reading several threads on the matter, I noticed one individual mention that doing the changes should be done with the stabilizer jacks in the raised position. I have now done the entire process again, and found that the severity of the angle for the front end links is much less.

It has been mentioned that the "S" shaped end links were only used for a short time, and that they composed "most" of the failures as far as end links breaking. That being said, I would hope to hear from anyone with the "S" shaped end links that has done the CHF & their results. Also, perhaps those that are "mo' smarter" than me, either through education or experience, could weigh in with their opinions on adding gusset plates to the "S" links for strengthening.

Thank you to all of you for your time and input.
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Old 09-05-2020, 09:54 PM   #148
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Originally Posted by halfprice View Post
No popping with my plates. They have been on for three years. Torqued to 66 ft lb and blue loctite

I also removed the sway bar completely and lubed the bushings with poly lube. Bushing brackets also torqued to 66 ft lb

JerryAttachment 25912
Does your vehicle have straight end links or "S" bend ones?
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Old 09-05-2020, 10:57 PM   #149
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Originally Posted by OutlawPops View Post
Does your vehicle have straight end links or "S" bend ones?
Straight
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Old 09-05-2020, 11:50 PM   #150
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Thank you
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Old 09-07-2020, 01:19 AM   #151
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Short test drive today with no noise ! What a difference a calibrated torque wrench makes ! ��
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Old 09-07-2020, 12:51 PM   #152
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Originally Posted by OutlawPops View Post
Short test drive today with no noise ! What a difference a calibrated torque wrench makes ! ��
Did you do the rear as well?
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Old 09-07-2020, 03:51 PM   #153
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Originally Posted by Jimbo56 View Post
Did you do the rear as well?
Yes. I’ve had the back done from the start. The only issue that I’ve had out of the rear is one axle mount bolt was loose in the beginning.
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