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Old 09-23-2018, 02:21 PM   #3561
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I may have to repurpose my iPad during trips. I would use the DWs iPad but she would jump stiff legged and Im not tired of living just yet. Can anyone recommend a scanner that has a display that is better for viewing the rpm, speed and fuel usage? Doesnt have to be overly technical. Thanks
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Old 09-23-2018, 02:33 PM   #3562
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Originally Posted by Steamboat View Post
I may have to repurpose my iPad during trips. I would use the DWs iPad but she would jump stiff legged and Im not tired of living just yet. Can anyone recommend a scanner that has a display that is better for viewing the rpm, speed and fuel usage? Doesnt have to be overly technical. Thanks
If you have the scanner and do not like the display, you can download several different apps. Test a few out until you find one suitable for you.
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Old 09-23-2018, 03:25 PM   #3563
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If you have the scanner and do not like the display, you can download several different apps. Test a few out until you find one suitable for you.
I use a Scangauge.
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Old 09-23-2018, 05:43 PM   #3564
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There are several for sale on Amazon, make sure it’s compatible with an iPad if that’s what you use.
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Old 09-24-2018, 02:56 PM   #3565
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Sorry for the "noob question"...I searched a few times, but couldn't find the answer

For the Hurricane/Windsport 29M, the inverter is under the bed (the board with 4 screws)

I've read that some turn the Inverter on & off fairly frequently (on for travel, off for storage, etc.).

Is there an easy way to accomplish that without removing the board with 4 screws each time?
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Old 09-24-2018, 03:02 PM   #3566
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Originally Posted by BandG View Post
Sorry for the "noob question"...I searched a few times, but couldn't find the answer

For the Hurricane/Windsport 29M, the inverter is under the bed (the board with 4 screws)

I've read that some turn the Inverter on & off fairly frequently (on for travel, off for storage, etc.).

Is there an easy way to accomplish that without removing the board with 4 screws each time?
Most inverters have a remote on/off (some display) panel for easy operation. Doesn't yours? Follow a telephone cable looking line from the inverter.
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Old 09-24-2018, 03:05 PM   #3567
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Originally Posted by Tfryman View Post
Most inverters have a remote on/off (some display) panel for easy operation. Doesn't yours? Follow a telephone cable looking line from the inverter.
OK, thanks...I'll trace the cable today. I figured there was an easy answer that I was over looking.
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Old 09-24-2018, 04:23 PM   #3568
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OK, thanks...I'll trace the cable today. I figured there was an easy answer that I was over looking.
The control panel is above the air conditioner thermostat on the bathroom wall
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Old 09-24-2018, 04:30 PM   #3569
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Old 09-24-2018, 04:33 PM   #3570
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Originally Posted by BandG View Post
OK, thanks...I'll trace the cable today. I figured there was an easy answer that I was over looking.
If I remember rightly, the inverter is only powered up when you switch it on using the small panel to the left of the bathroom door (near the thermostat). Though it may not be perfectly accurate, I also use that to get a voltage readout of the house batteries after they've been in storage for awhile. I get my reading and then I turn it back off.
Cheers!

Kent
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Old 09-24-2018, 09:15 PM   #3571
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Originally Posted by PapaMo View Post
If I remember rightly, the inverter is only powered up when you switch it on using the small panel to the left of the bathroom door (near the thermostat). Though it may not be perfectly accurate, I also use that to get a voltage readout of the house batteries after they've been in storage for awhile. I get my reading and then I turn it back off.
Cheers!

Kent
Thanks Jerry & Kent.

I do have that display (never noticed it had Xantex on it before!

I've flipped it on to get a battery reading (like Kent), but didn't realize that was the On/Off toggle switch for the Inverter.

I appreciate the education!
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Old 09-29-2018, 06:40 PM   #3572
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Good job
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Old 09-29-2018, 09:18 PM   #3573
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Hittin' the road

Well, now that my wife officially retired 2 weeks ago, we're getting ready to hit the road. Heading across the northern parts of Arizona, New Mexico, Texas, and Oklahoma -- and then returning to SoCal with a more southern route (never been to Carlsbad Caverns). Taking about a month.

I wanted to take a moment and thank Dave, Jerry, Dino and many others for tips on preparing to take such an extensive trip. At 3,500 miles, I decided to do the first oil change. Installed a Fumoto valve (can't wait until next change to use it!) I also found that the most difficult thing I've done yet in all of the things I've done (CHF, front and rear, snap pads, etc.) -- was to add the dang motor oil!! Holy cow! What an engineering nightmare!

I remembered that Dave had mentioned in the past using a hand-pump that connected right to the 'can' of oil. A tad tedious, but no more laughable mess (or was I crying...?) In fact, for you 29M owners, if you get one of these pumps -- mine was from AutoZone for $10 -- the fill tube fits right into the dipstick tube. This allowed me to rest the oil container on top of the grill and pump away. You do want to keep a close eye on the fill tube to make certain it doesn't pop out of the dipstick tube during the pumping process. That did not happen to me. I swear. Thank you, SuperD !!

I will post if I come across things to look for with our rigs...or to confirm ideas already brought up. Said it before, but I'll say it again -- what Jerry started here has made a positive impact on all our lives. Comfort, convenience and safety.

To those of you heading to the balloon festival...enjoy! I'll wave as I go by!

Kent
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Old 09-29-2018, 10:05 PM   #3574
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Why are you filling the crankcase thru the dipstick tube? Remove oil filler cap and pour in (I use a funnel). No muss no fuss.Happy trails!
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Old 09-29-2018, 11:50 PM   #3575
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Why are you filling the crankcase thru the dipstick tube? Remove oil filler cap and pour in (I use a funnel). No muss no fuss.Happy trails!
Unfortunately, on the 29M the normal fill tube is way up high, underneath the shroud of the front cap. After trying a funnel, there wasn't much room to get into the body-contortion needed to raise the oil container around and above the funnel...and still maintain control of the situation.

What I have also considered would be to transfer the oil to more of a narrow, long-neck bottle -- like I've seen used with differential fluid. That, or a similar container would probably work.

I've seen numerous MH's on the F-53 chassis that have a much better designed front 'hood' where there is more than enough space to easily add oil. Your 35C front cap, however, looks identical to mine. I'm probably not as nimble as most. By the time I duck up and under the hood, I can barely crane my head to look up to where the fill cap is.

Looking with a critical eye, there is no reason that the fill tube couldn't be six inches lower. But hey...I'm not a design engineer. I did read of some pour soul who had a MH (I don't think it was a Thor product) who had to remove the front dash to access the fill tube. Crazy. He ended up taking it somewhere where they had a hook-shaped tube and a powered pump to fill the crankcase.

Cheers!
Kent
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Old 09-30-2018, 12:06 AM   #3576
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I have an F-53 chassis and the oil filler tube is too high and in an awkward location. I tried using a screw-on plastic hose on a one quart oil container, but that took much too long. The last time I changed oil, I bought the oil in five quart containers and poured the oil into a one quart oil container with the small diameter opening. I was careful not to overfill the quart container and was able to pour the oil into the filler tube without spilling a drop. Filling the quart oil container was easy because I used a funnel.
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Old 09-30-2018, 12:11 AM   #3577
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Originally Posted by PapaMo View Post
Unfortunately, on the 29M the normal fill tube is way up high, underneath the shroud of the front cap. After trying a funnel, there wasn't much room to get into the body-contortion needed to raise the oil container around and above the funnel...and still maintain control of the situation.

What I have also considered would be to transfer the oil to more of a narrow, long-neck bottle -- like I've seen used with differential fluid. That, or a similar container would probably work.

I've seen numerous MH's on the F-53 chassis that have a much better designed front 'hood' where there is more than enough space to easily add oil. Your 35C front cap, however, looks identical to mine. I'm probably not as nimble as most. By the time I duck up and under the hood, I can barely crane my head to look up to where the fill cap is.

Looking with a critical eye, there is no reason that the fill tube couldn't be six inches lower. But hey...I'm not a design engineer. I did read of some pour soul who had a MH (I don't think it was a Thor product) who had to remove the front dash to access the fill tube. Crazy. He ended up taking it somewhere where they had a hook-shaped tube and a powered pump to fill the crankcase.

Cheers!
Kent
Kent I use someting like this

https://www.masterlink.ca/Home/Oil%20Buddy
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Old 09-30-2018, 12:57 AM   #3578
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Originally Posted by Metalman View Post
I have an F-53 chassis and the oil filler tube is too high and in an awkward location..... Filling the quart oil container was easy because I used a funnel.
That's what I was thinking...the narrow spouted container giving much more control.

Thanks!

Kent
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Old 09-30-2018, 01:01 AM   #3579
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Originally Posted by rmblaster View Post
Kent I use someting like this

https://www.masterlink.ca/Home/Oil%20Buddy
Oooo...I like the looks of that! I think I had something similar years ago that I used for filling lanterns with white gas. I'm assuming that you get it into position and then apply downward pressure.

Great tip! Thanks!

Kent
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Old 09-30-2018, 01:17 AM   #3580
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Kent I use someting like this

https://www.masterlink.ca/Home/Oil%20Buddy
Does the oil pour out of the container quickly?
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