Good, Bad, or Dunno

[Sappy2]

Yup, I run into this with mine all the time. I have a set of stepped ramps that allow me to run the front tires up to 5" (Campco?). I then use stacked jack pads under the front jacks since auto level will crap out from over extension if no pads are used. The issue is not that the suspension or jacks cannot handle the situation, but when your inside walking around, you can feel the side to side sway from the jacks. That lateral load is not what the jack mounts are designed for (my opinion). It is better to have the tires "at least a little" in contact with the ground. I have to admit, sometimes it is impossible to do so, so I just wing it or live with the lean.

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by dkoldman

I guess you could use this when manually leveling as well.

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-25505-E...256958046&th=1


Turn on Power Gear level system wait for system to show green and push Auto Level button.

I always get all 4 lights on Camco lever turn Green and the Power Gear will flash green saying it is complete.

I let out slide

Go outside and plug in shorepower, genny shuts down.

Go get beer and watch to see if any neighbors are manually leveling their coaches

I may have omitted very important piece of context? We do not have a towed. And we are in and out of campsites like a drunk in a Saloon. We try to use the ease to came and go justify no need for actual towed. I think my wife would like a towed but that one time a trip where we may actually need does not justify the effort or expense for us right now.

Anyway to the point, one button to level and one button to retract milks our goat. So for some that are looking for extended stays especially with larger rigs, your perspectives are duly noted, but level is level. Height is different focus.

[holtcg]

Originally Posted by Jimbo56

Auto level sends all 4 jacks down to ground contact (Levelup system on mine). It then tries to raise the front to level. With the rear jacks down, the rear end can’t squat. So it raises the front off the ground. Here’s how I do manual.

Run the front down till level. L or R if needed. Then run rear down just until they make contact. Bingo. All that wobbling and jumping up and down puts stress on the frame, walls, and roof. It can’t be good for the coach.

Shouldn't you get the rears on the ground before doing any L/R? I'd be afraid of twisting the frame. I do fronts first until a little tipped back (or contact if already a little uphill. Then backs down until level front to back, then finally L/R so the frame never gets twisting force applied.

I could be completely wrong here and the rear jacks may actuate and contact with the same left/right offset as the fronts, but I've never had the opportunity to see because I've always saved L/R adjustments for last.

[Jimbo56]

Originally Posted by holtcg

Shouldn't you get the rears on the ground before doing any L/R? I'd be afraid of twisting the frame. I do fronts first until a little tipped back (or contact if already a little uphill. Then backs down until level front to back, then finally L/R so the frame never gets twisting force applied.

I could be completely wrong here and the rear jacks may actuate and contact with the same left/right offset as the fronts, but I've never had the opportunity to see because I've always saved L/R adjustments for last.

If LF is down. And I need to raise left side. When pressing the L button it will run the LR down to match the LF then both lift the left side.

[Chateau_Nomad]

Originally Posted by holtcg

Shouldn't you get the rears on the ground before doing any L/R? I'd be afraid of twisting the frame. I do fronts first until a little tipped back (or contact if already a little uphill. Then backs down until level front to back, then finally L/R so the frame never gets twisting force applied.

I could be completely wrong here and the rear jacks may actuate and contact with the same left/right offset as the fronts, but I've never had the opportunity to see because I've always saved L/R adjustments for last.

My Big Foot system is completely manual, and your method is generally what I use. Mine does have a "start" button that starts an automatic sequence which drops both fronts to contact (actually a little TOO much), then follows with the rears. It's not level... just stabilized.

I found it's simpler for me to just do 100% manual. I drop the fronts, then the rear. Then level as needed front to back... followed by leveling side to side. With a little "touch up" after the slide is extended, it takes maybe a couple minutes? But I have complete control over how high the entire coach is raised.

I just couldn't swallow the extra grand the fully automatic system would have cost for my coach... and now I'm glad I didn't splurge on it. Different strokes...

[Frank@theShop]

Originally Posted by ontherun

New at this .....and wondering if this is right. Only happens when the site is undeveloped, sloping forward.....Attachment 38956

Your system might be in need of a zero point re-calibration. The tires should never loose contact with the ground. Additionally there are some situations and conditions where the jacks should not be used.

[Bill Johnson]

Originally Posted by Frank@theShop

Your system might be in need of a zero point re-calibration. The tires should never loose contact with the ground. Additionally there are some situations and conditions where the jacks should not be used.

If a pad is out of level enough the wheels will come off the ground, I'm camping now and my right side tires are barely touching the ground

[Galobo]

Where are you Duckface, this thread needs help.

[Frank@theShop]

Originally Posted by Bill Johnson

If a pad is out of level enough the wheels will come off the ground, I'm camping now and my right side tires are barely touching the ground

If a pad is out of level enough you should not be using the jacks. There are situations where Thor as well as all other manufacturers recommend against using the leveling system. The first thing it says in the manual regarding usage of the jacks is to park the coach in a "reasonably level" surface". Jacks are are not designed to bare the weight of the coach, and most importantly are not designed to absorb lateral forces. That is how jacks get bent. The slightest bend, not visible to the naked eye will lead to never ending issues with the jacks before the flaw is ultimately discovered.

[16ACE27]

Originally Posted by Galobo

Where are you Duckface, this thread needs help.

Why? It has all the same answers/opinions as all the other threads asking about leveling. We're not reinventing the wheel here.

[Galobo]

Originally Posted by 16ACE27

Why? It has all the same answers/opinions as all the other threads asking about leveling. We're not reinventing the wheel here.

No, but his wise humor needs to be added this revolving thread for some amusement.

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Galobo

No, but his wise humor needs to be added this revolving thread for some amusement.

You always have to tip toe around the Duck, you just never know which angle he may come from, and after a few lights come on, you kind of go ahhhhhh

No Duck No Peace

[Galobo]

Originally Posted by dkoldman

You always have to tip toe around the Duck, you just never know which angle he may come from, and after a few lights come on, you kind of go ahhhhhh

No Duck No Peace

Amen to that.

[Mousemate]

I will just let you all ponder these pics...