Level MH Shifts After Slide Deployed

[Deadahead]

Still considering myself a novice, third season with Thor, but I've gotten pretty good at reading the level and choosing the correct blocking.

Yet here's my question, I've noticed that once level and I put the slide out, the new weight distribution throws everything off.
Do I just let this be or do I account for this action and adjust the blocking from the beginning?

I know the importance of of leveling and one being avoiding undo stress on the slide motors. I just want to do it right, any words would be helpful.

Thanks all.

[16ACE27]

Experience and manual leveling procedure will get you were you need to be before deploying the slide, but soft ground may still throw you a curveball over several days. Id so, bump up the low slide manually with the slide still out.

[Lt Keefer]

Are you using blocks under the tires or an onboard powered leveling system? I guess it doesn't matter, but if the drop is consistent, you could add the appropriate block before extending the slide. If you have an onboard leveling system, and the drop is consistent, you could recalibrate the level setting to compensate for the drop.

[Scubawise]

If level we add a block and when slide extends it goes level.
If coach not level leaning passenger side, 2 blocks makes all level. Lora final test is the bathroom door no opening or closing

[RACarvalho]

Assuming your rig has hydraulic autoleveling system, it can only "move" after deployed if you have a leak in the hydraulic system or you are on soft ground.

When in doubt, it is always good to put blocks under the leveling jacks.
Assemble them in a such way that the area of the blocks is bigger than the area of the jack....

The bathroom (or fridge) door is the best level indicator!

[Jimbo56]

Originally Posted by Deadahead

Still considering myself a novice, third season with Thor, but I've gotten pretty good at reading the level and choosing the correct blocking.

Yet here's my question, I've noticed that once level and I put the slide out, the new weight distribution throws everything off.
Do I just let this be or do I account for this action and adjust the blocking from the beginning?

I know the importance of of leveling and one being avoiding undo stress on the slide motors. I just want to do it right, any words would be helpful.

Thanks all.

How bout telling us your year, make, model, leveler system?

[Deadahead]

Originally Posted by 16ACE27

Experience and manual leveling procedure will get you were you need to be before deploying the slide, but soft ground may still throw you a curveball over several days. Id so, bump up the low slide manually with the slide still out.

sorry should of mentioned I'm using blocking, but others have given my advice for both
thanks anyways

[Deadahead]

Originally Posted by Lt Keefer

Are you using blocks under the tires or an onboard powered leveling system? I guess it doesn't matter, but if the drop is consistent, you could add the appropriate block before extending the slide. If you have an onboard leveling system, and the drop is consistent, you could recalibrate the level setting to compensate for the drop.

blocking, and thanks

[Deadahead]

Originally Posted by Scubawise

If level we add a block and when slide extends it goes level.
If coach not level leaning passenger side, 2 blocks makes all level. Lora final test is the bathroom door no opening or closing

yes, that's what I figured to try out and I love the Lora final test, I have experienced bathroom door being stuck lol

[Deadahead]

Originally Posted by RACarvalho

Assuming your rig has hydraulic autoleveling system, it can only "move" after deployed if you have a leak in the hydraulic system or you are on soft ground.

When in doubt, it is always good to put blocks under the leveling jacks.
Assemble them in a such way that the area of the blocks is bigger than the area of the jack....

The bathroom (or fridge) door is the best level indicator!

lol you are the second to mentioned the bathroom door and I have ran across it being stuck if not level lol
Thank you

[Deadahead]

Originally Posted by Jimbo56

How bout telling us your year, make, model, leveler system?

whoops, big whoops, I'm using blocking and it seems like I'm to take into account the weight of the slide before starting the leveling process

Thor four winds 24F 2021

[EA37TS]

Originally Posted by Deadahead

whoops, big whoops, I'm using blocking and it seems like I'm to take into account the weight of the slide before starting the leveling process

Thor four winds 24F 2021

Correct. The weight of the slide will compress the suspension as the slide is extended.

You don’t have scissor style stabilizer jacks on your rig?

[Chateau_Nomad]

Your 24F should have electric stabilizer "jacks" on the rear corners. The switches to raise/lower them are just inside the door on the side of the cabinet.

To make it simple, BEFORE you extend the slide, level the coach with your blocks like you've been doing. AFTER you have leveled, extend the slide.

Now, lower both stabilizers JUST until they firmly plant, but NO MORE.

NOW comes the adjustment for level...

If the driver side dipped a little, it's an easy fix. Just bump the driver side stabilizer up a little. I ALWAYS had the driver side just a smidge high... because that's the head of the bed side.

DO NOT used the stabilizer jacks for basic leveling... ONLY to make very minor side-to-side adjustments! They are generally for stabilizing - NOT heavy duty leveling.

Pro tip... Carry a few extra blocks to place under the stabilizer foot pads to give extra "lift" if needed.

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Chateau_Nomad

Your 24F should have electric stabilizer "jacks" on the rear corners. The switches to raise/lower them are just inside the door on the side of the cabinet.

To make it simple, BEFORE you extend the slide, level the coach with your blocks like you've been doing. AFTER you have leveled, extend the slide.

Now, lower both stabilizers JUST until they firmly plant, but NO MORE.

NOW comes the adjustment for level...

If the driver side dipped a little, it's an easy fix. Just bump the driver side stabilizer up a little. I ALWAYS had the driver side just a smidge high... because that's the head of the bed side.

DO NOT used the stabilizer jacks for basic leveling... ONLY to make very minor side-to-side adjustments! They are generally for stabilizing - NOT heavy duty leveling.

Pro tip... Carry a few extra blocks to place under the stabilizer foot pads to give extra "lift" if needed.

Bravo

[DbleDutch]

Originally Posted by Deadahead

whoops, big whoops, I'm using blocking and it seems like I'm to take into account the weight of the slide before starting the leveling process

Thor four winds 24F 2021

Yeap, drove us nuts until we put a Levelmate Pro into our 24F. Level MH to perfect with the slide out. Then draw the slide in and set the Levelmate Pro at level in this position. Now when you park the Levelmate will give you in inches blocking needed at each wheel, block up as needed to what Levelmate says is level (but per a level for ours is roughly 1.5" high on slide side) put slide out, set stabilizers, and enjoy camping.
The 24F with a 20' slide that extends 3', places alot of pressure on the driver side suspension. We love our 24F.

[Deadahead]

Originally Posted by EA37TS

Correct. The weight of the slide will compress the suspension as the slide is extended.

You don’t have scissor style stabilizer jacks on your rig?

yes I do, and between all the suggestions, anticipation of a drop and use of the stabilizer jacks, I think I got it now.

thank you and all

[Deadahead]

Originally Posted by Chateau_Nomad

Your 24F should have electric stabilizer "jacks" on the rear corners. The switches to raise/lower them are just inside the door on the side of the cabinet.

To make it simple, BEFORE you extend the slide, level the coach with your blocks like you've been doing. AFTER you have leveled, extend the slide.

Now, lower both stabilizers JUST until they firmly plant, but NO MORE.

NOW comes the adjustment for level...

If the driver side dipped a little, it's an easy fix. Just bump the driver side stabilizer up a little. I ALWAYS had the driver side just a smidge high... because that's the head of the bed side.

DO NOT used the stabilizer jacks for basic leveling... ONLY to make very minor side-to-side adjustments! They are generally for stabilizing - NOT heavy duty leveling.

Pro tip... Carry a few extra blocks to place under the stabilizer foot pads to give extra "lift" if needed.

Yes! haven't had to use my stabilizers but your suggestion helped, between this and anticipating the slide drop I think I have an handle on it now.

Thank you

[Deadahead]

Originally Posted by DbleDutch

Yeap, drove us nuts until we put a Levelmate Pro into our 24F. Level MH to perfect with the slide out. Then draw the slide in and set the Levelmate Pro at level in this position. Now when you park the Levelmate will give you in inches blocking needed at each wheel, block up as needed to what Levelmate says is level (but per a level for ours is roughly 1.5" high on slide side) put slide out, set stabilizers, and enjoy camping.
The 24F with a 20' slide that extends 3', places alot of pressure on the driver side suspension. We love our 24F.

hey, thanks, just looked into the Levelmate Pro, a little pricey but may be worth the money. I'll see how I do with all the suggestions and carpenters level, but still may just plump down the money for convenience sake lol.

Thank you much

[Chateau_Nomad]

Originally Posted by Deadahead

Yes! haven't had to use my stabilizers but your suggestion helped, between this and anticipating the slide drop I think I have an handle on it now.

Thank you

Hmmm. You've never used your stabilizers? Didn't your motorhome rock side to side somewhat when walking around inside? Before I had the Big Foot leveling system installed, part of our camp setup procedure was dropping the stabilizer jacks.

[JeffThor325]

If you have a kitchen measuring cup with a flat bottom (a ¼ cup measure will do just fine), fill it to the rim with water and carefully set it on the counter. Instant 360° bubble level.