Omni/Magnitude front cap fix

[kwplot34]

Originally Posted by LarryD

out of curiosity, what would you guess the job would cost to have done? Not your cost but what someone would have to pay in time and materials to do the same....

I would guess around $5k-$6 parts and labor if the shop did everything I just did to mine. I think RV repair places usually charge $125/hr labor.

[Pillbox]

Kevin,
You make my belly laugh
The first thing my wife asked, “will this fall off” my reply was
Hope not, did not bring an umbrella
Terry

[kwplot34]

Originally Posted by Pillbox

Kevin,
You make my belly laugh
The first thing my wife asked, “will this fall off” my reply was
Hope not, did not bring an umbrella
Terry

Didn't you fix yours already? If you did and it still falls off you forgot to put some screws back in and, your wife will be mad at you.

[CTRvs666]

My cap is popping over my left ear, and the front cap bounces when I go over bumps. Hopefully I can just find some screws to replace where the noise is. I am not equipped to do the full monty that you did. I really love my rig, but I am not loving some of the chronic problems. My dealer just got approval to replace the vinyl floor due to yellowing, the service writer said, she is seeing a lot of yellowing vinyl on Thors. I was down 90 days due to a slide motor failure, and waiting for an H frame. Then the dealer didn't seat the motor and it only worked at the dealer so I drove off and it failed the next try. The problem I have is that I'm in for the long run with this unit. I paid 155k for this 2021 right before the bubble and now they are over 210K. I will follow your images and such to get to the cap and see what is going on up there.

[Judge]

Originally Posted by CTRvs666

My cap is popping over my left ear, and the front cap bounces when I go over bumps. Hopefully I can just find some screws to replace where the noise is. I am not equipped to do the full monty that you did. I really love my rig, but I am not loving some of the chronic problems. My dealer just got approval to replace the vinyl floor due to yellowing, the service writer said, she is seeing a lot of yellowing vinyl on Thors. I was down 90 days due to a slide motor failure, and waiting for an H frame. Then the dealer didn't seat the motor and it only worked at the dealer so I drove off and it failed the next try. The problem I have is that I'm in for the long run with this unit. I paid 155k for this 2021 right before the bubble and now they are over 210K. I will follow your images and such to get to the cap and see what is going on up there.

Ditch the Schwintek Slide Mechanism and replace it with the Vroom Slide Mechanism. It will be the best $2800 - $3000 you could spend on the coach.

[LarryD]

Originally Posted by Judge

Ditch the Schwintek Slide Mechanism and replace it with the Vroom Slide Mechanism. It will be the best $2800 - $3000 you could spend on the coach.

Can you tell us a little more Judge? How/Why is it better? Would you still replace if the original works? Is there a benefit other than reliability?

[Judge]

Originally Posted by LarryD

Can you tell us a little more Judge? How/Why is it better? Would you still replace if the original works? Is there a benefit other than reliability?

Here you go......

https://www.thorforums.com/forums/f2...v34-28659.html


Vroom Slide Systems - RV Slide Out Replacement, Fix RV Slide Out Fix

[kwplot34]

Originally Posted by CTRvs666

My cap is popping over my left ear, and the front cap bounces when I go over bumps. Hopefully I can just find some screws to replace where the noise is. I am not equipped to do the full monty that you did. I really love my rig, but I am not loving some of the chronic problems. My dealer just got approval to replace the vinyl floor due to yellowing, the service writer said, she is seeing a lot of yellowing vinyl on Thors. I was down 90 days due to a slide motor failure, and waiting for an H frame. Then the dealer didn't seat the motor and it only worked at the dealer so I drove off and it failed the next try. The problem I have is that I'm in for the long run with this unit. I paid 155k for this 2021 right before the bubble and now they are over 210K. I will follow your images and such to get to the cap and see what is going on up there.

Full Monty that is pretty funny.
I understand not being equipped to go the route I did with mine on the fix, but if you want to do something to try a fix at the minimum I would pull the molding outside which is pretty easy to lift off and replace the screws with some 1" #8 stainless steel sheet metal screws up each side to the roof, on the roof you will only have to remove the Dicor sealant off each screw and install a new screw, make sure to put sealant on the new screws before you install them. On the roof cover each screw with Dicor, on the sides use the 3m silicon on each screw before you install it, put the molding down and run a bead of silicon up each side of the molding and you're done.
If you would like to go a step further and use nuts and bolts like I did you will have to pull 3 trim pieces from inside the coach which is pretty easy.
Let me know if I can help you with anything.

[kwplot34]

Originally Posted by Judge

Ditch the Schwintek Slide Mechanism and replace it with the Vroom Slide Mechanism. It will be the best $2800 - $3000 you could spend on the coach.

This right here is going to be an upgrade on mine, even though the XG32 has 2 smaller slides I think the issue will happen that the full wall slides have it will just take a little longer to show up.

[chunker21]

Originally Posted by kwplot34

This right here is going to be an upgrade on mine, even though the XG32 has 2 smaller slides I think the issue will happen that the full wall slides have it will just take a little longer to show up.

Likely so since so much weight is in it. That main slide concerns me too so I am super careful to be level when I use it and always hold the switch. After my spring trip if I decide to hold on to this thing a while longer I may tackle the simplified repair but I know I'll want to add some insulation so I know that means pulling more interior.

When you suggested #8 screws, what were in originally, 6? That's pretty small.

[kwplot34]

Originally Posted by chunker21

Likely so since so much weight is in it. That main slide concerns me too so I am super careful to be level when I use it and always hold the switch. After my spring trip if I decide to hold on to this thing a while longer I may tackle the simplified repair but I know I'll want to add some insulation so I know that means pulling more interior.

When you suggested #8 screws, what were in originally, 6? That's pretty small.

Yeah the original self tapping screws are most likely #6 and they are pretty small and cheap, you will find them rusted if you pull any of yours out.
The interior pieces you have to pull to add insulation is a pretty easy job, not very many screws in them.

[Jimbo56]

Originally Posted by CTRvs666

My cap is popping over my left ear, and the front cap bounces when I go over bumps. Hopefully I can just find some screws to replace where the noise is. I am not equipped to do the full monty that you did. I really love my rig, but I am not loving some of the chronic problems. My dealer just got approval to replace the vinyl floor due to yellowing, the service writer said, she is seeing a lot of yellowing vinyl on Thors. I was down 90 days due to a slide motor failure, and waiting for an H frame. Then the dealer didn't seat the motor and it only worked at the dealer so I drove off and it failed the next try. The problem I have is that I'm in for the long run with this unit. I paid 155k for this 2021 right before the bubble and now they are over 210K. I will follow your images and such to get to the cap and see what is going on up there.

Sell it now. You can probably get more than you paid for it.

[Jimbo56]

Originally Posted by Judge

Here you go......

https://www.thorforums.com/forums/f2...v34-28659.html


Vroom Slide Systems - RV Slide Out Replacement, Fix RV Slide Out Fix

Is the Arizona shop still the only place to get it? Can the replacement parts be shipped to an independent shop?

[chunker21]

Originally Posted by kwplot34

Yeah the original self tapping screws are most likely #6 and they are pretty small and cheap, you will find them rusted if you pull any of yours out.
The interior pieces you have to pull to add insulation is a pretty easy job, not very many screws in them.

I looked briefly at a Nexus Ghost early fall and I checked out the front cap mounting. The cap on the ghost extends down the sides in back of the doors most of the way to the steps. The screw or bolt, Phillips style flange heads were exposed, not covered up in a trim section. Based on the screw or bolt head I would have guesses a #10 or 12 screw. Ghost was a 2019 and had a careless PO, my GF didn't want to look at it so we didn't stay long. The exposed screw heads didn't bother me terribly, they were painted, and there were plenty, the spacing was even and not a Swiss cheese assembly like you found.

We have a few day trip down to central FL in a couple weeks. Every trip and drive I find me checking carefully the attaching points of the cap. But like jumbo suggested to CTR, sell it now and get the money back. In some ways it's a good things there isn't a major Renegade or Dynamax dealer close by making it easy to see and sell.

[LarryD]

thank you Judge!

[Pillbox]

Waiting for the full monty
Terry

[kwplot34]

Originally Posted by Pillbox

Waiting for the full monty
Terry

I can make it happen, but you have to pay first and there are no refunds

[Pillbox]

The wife is contemplating the offer, will get back to you.
Terry

[Lamokadave]

Originally Posted by kwplot34

Full Monty that is pretty funny.
I understand not being equipped to go the route I did with mine on the fix, but if you want to do something to try a fix at the minimum I would pull the molding outside which is pretty easy to lift off and replace the screws with some 1" #8 stainless steel sheet metal screws up each side to the roof, on the roof you will only have to remove the Dicor sealant off each screw and install a new screw, make sure to put sealant on the new screws before you install them. On the roof cover each screw with Dicor, on the sides use the 3m silicon on each screw before you install it, put the molding down and run a bead of silicon up each side of the molding and you're done.
If you would like to go a step further and use nuts and bolts like I did you will have to pull 3 trim pieces from inside the coach which is pretty easy.
Let me know if I can help you with anything.

I also appreciate this minimalist recommendation. I was surprised that you didn't include the aluminum clamping technique up the sides and between the cab roof and cap bottom over the cockpit

[kwplot34]

Originally Posted by Lamokadave

I also appreciate this minimalist recommendation. I was surprised that you didn't include the aluminum clamping technique up the sides and between the cab roof and cap bottom over the cockpit

It would be the best route to take. Not knowing others comfort level with some of the steps I took, putting in bigger SS sheet metal screws is an upgrade over the small, cheap self tapping screws Thor used, which will break with the cap movement and flexing.

If anyone wants to take some of the steps I used but are uncomfortable with doing it, I will help out anyway that I can.