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Old 08-12-2021, 08:26 AM   #41
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Ok.... given the posts so far...... what's the Over - Under on the percentage of Omni / Magnitudes that have this issue?

I want to call Vegas and place my bet. I'm guessing its over 80%.

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Old 08-12-2021, 01:55 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by Judge View Post
Ok.... given the posts so far...... what's the Over - Under on the percentage of Omni / Magnitudes that have this issue?

I want to call Vegas and place my bet. I'm guessing its over 80%.
And this is only the ones that are members of this forum, just think of all the ones on the road that have the same structural issue that are not members here, my bet it's 100%.
Thor if you're paying attention to this thread you better take action and fix the ones already on the road and redesign the way the front cap is attached.
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Old 08-12-2021, 02:31 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by kwplot34 View Post
And this is only the ones that are members of this forum, just think of all the ones on the road that have the same structural issue that are not members here, my bet it's 100%.
Thor if you're paying attention to this thread you better take action and fix the ones already on the road and redesign the way the front cap is attached.
Have you or any owner for that matter reported there issue to the NHTSA? If not, why not?
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Old 08-12-2021, 03:19 PM   #44
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You are going to have problems. Keep an eye on it especially if you tend to travel on roads known to be rough. The main problem on the repair is removing the trim piece, and not to damage the paint on the strip. It's best to remove the strip from the bottom up and don't go all the way to the top. Longer and larger stainless hardware should cover the repair, them add more screws than the factory. Replace the trim strip and caulk both sides of the trim strip. I have done my passenger side and ready to do the drivers side when weather improves here in Fl.
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Old 08-12-2021, 03:22 PM   #45
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Old 08-12-2021, 03:24 PM   #46
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Judge, how do you send an email directly to THOR, with picture attachments? On the THOR owner website, there is no email address to send communication. I only saw that CUSTOMER CARE that ask for your NAME, Email, Phone Number and VIN Last 8 Number. Then a box to type your message. But no actual email address to send (so you can have a record).
Just asking in case I need to email them about my upcoming appointment with my RV dealer regarding my slide and some other minor issues (ACE).

I agree. I think you guys should start reporting this issue with NHTSA. What if that entire thing do separate while you are on the road? Maybe NHTSA can make THOR do a recall, given the number of affected units reported.

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Old 08-12-2021, 06:13 PM   #47
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Judge,
I got more pics, but, I never completely removed the cap. What are you looking for?
The c-channel they talk about is where the top cap sits on the side, but, the only channeled part is behind the passenger and drivers window. Pic to follow.
Terry
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Old 08-12-2021, 06:15 PM   #48
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Originally Posted by EA37TS View Post
Have you or any owner for that matter reported there issue to the NHTSA? If not, why not?
I believe one person above said they have, and I plan on doing it also,
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Old 08-12-2021, 06:32 PM   #49
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We bought here and would call them
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Old 08-12-2021, 06:40 PM   #50
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Ok, re read all post as marked by kwpLot34, and I forwarded all the others to this post.
What I foundÖ..
Fiction, at least as it pertains to MY 2017, as Gritz says a shoe box fit, thor mentioned a c channel across the top WRONG! Fiberglass cap just rested on the cab roof, but some wood. Got pic
The only thing that I could see was 3 broken and 2 in place screws near the front of the windshield. The other screws were attached from cab tin to wood, thats it, I should say, only one still attached anyway. Got pic
As post 47 shows, this is the only place I found to have a good channel fit. See pic.
I will be pulling the trim off going all the way to the top cap seam, will take pics.
Terry
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Old 08-12-2021, 06:42 PM   #51
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Opps this should be pic 1
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Old 08-12-2021, 06:58 PM   #52
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The trim strip that you remove is 1 inch wide and runs from the bottom edge of the coach in front of the front storage bay and runs straight up to the top of the coach body. It will show evidence of bulging or separation.
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Old 08-12-2021, 06:59 PM   #53
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Originally Posted by Pillbox View Post
Judge,
I got more pics, but, I never completely removed the cap. What are you looking for?
The c-channel they talk about is where the top cap sits on the side, but, the only channeled part is behind the passenger and drivers window. Pic to follow.
Terry
Hery Terry..... I was just joking..... I was saying you could stage a picture to make it look like the front cap fell off.... then maybe that would get Thor's attention.

Just a bad attempt at some humor......


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Old 08-12-2021, 07:04 PM   #54
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Originally Posted by Pillbox View Post
Ok, re read all post as marked by kwpLot34, and I forwarded all the others to this post.
What I foundÖ..
Fiction, at least as it pertains to MY 2017, as Gritz says a shoe box fit, thor mentioned a c channel across the top WRONG! Fiberglass cap just rested on the cab roof, but some wood. Got pic
The only thing that I could see was 3 broken and 2 in place screws near the front of the windshield. The other screws were attached from cab tin to wood, thats it, I should say, only one still attached anyway. Got pic
As post 47 shows, this is the only place I found to have a good channel fit. See pic.
I will be pulling the trim off going all the way to the top cap seam, will take pics.
Terry

It's just hard to believe anyone.... I mean anyone.... from the guy who designed it, to the guy building it, to the guy overseeing the work.... would think that a front cap that big and heavy would be secure enough to handle every day driving and average road conditions as well as the twisting from the leveling process with a just a few small screws.

There should be metal plates on each side of each mounting point with bolts and nuts.... not screws... holding that cap to the cab roof and to the house walls and roof.
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Old 08-12-2021, 07:16 PM   #55
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Judge,
Was going to photo shop one with the cap on the ground and just my legs showing
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Old 08-12-2021, 07:22 PM   #56
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Judge,
Was going to photo shop one with the cap on the ground and just my legs showing
Now that would by hysterical!!!!
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Old 08-12-2021, 07:48 PM   #57
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Y'all are experensing what I went through in 12/18 with my 2016 chateau 35 sk. To this day it's still not right. Thor worked on it twice. The 3rd time I told them the gel coat was cracking on the front of the cab over, but they wouldn't cover it. Plus the crack that went diagonally from driver side slide up to the top of the seam. I had to reglass it. But eventually going to put in plates inside and out. See pic. Looking down from the roof. Also still having water leaks, with heavy rain. Floor water stained on pass slide, and water coming out on the hand grab handle next to windshield. Gets me sick just talking about it. Looks and sounds like Lack of Q.C. at that plant still.
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Old 08-13-2021, 04:35 AM   #58
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I had a 2018 Four Winds 34S Super C with front end structural issues much worse than what I see. Thor had no idea how to fix this. Cost about 16k to have additional screws put in and exterior completely repainted. Cost additional 23k to install liquid spring shocks on both axels. Super C chassis canít support weight on the front end of the RV. This is really a center of gravity problem compounded by extra weight if you store anything above the cab. If your chassis is 22k lbs then itís not as noticeable. But the RV is too much for a 19,6k chassis. Limit your speed and degree of grade if possible. That may help.
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Old 08-13-2021, 09:26 AM   #59
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Originally Posted by William.hagins@yahoo.com View Post
I had a 2018 Four Winds 34S Super C with front end structural issues much worse than what I see. Thor had no idea how to fix this. Cost about 16k to have additional screws put in and exterior completely repainted. Cost additional 23k to install liquid spring shocks on both axels. Super C chassis canít support weight on the front end of the RV. This is really a center of gravity problem compounded by extra weight if you store anything above the cab. If your chassis is 22k lbs then itís not as noticeable. But the RV is too much for a 19,6k chassis. Limit your speed and degree of grade if possible. That may help.

I'm not sure I buy the chasis being the cause of the problem. The Dynamax Isata 5 Super C is on RAM 19.5K chassis and it has a sizeable front cap cab-over. I have not read any reports of similar issues on those coaches.

Now the Liquid Spring suspension looks pretty cool but there is no way I'd spend $23K on it. I would have sold the coach first if that was truly the issue.

An Air Bag system, Sumo Springs or Timbren springs would help and be a lot less money. I installed Sump Springs all the way around on my Magnitude and I notice a difference.

I do agree that the front cap is a bad design. Sticking out that far past the cab roof and winshied is a bad design and promotes a fulcrum effect while driving or even leveling bay having so much unsupported weight at the front of the cap.
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Old 08-13-2021, 09:39 AM   #60
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Originally Posted by edkjr View Post
Y'all are experensing what I went through in 12/18 with my 2016 chateau 35 sk. To this day it's still not right. Thor worked on it twice. The 3rd time I told them the gel coat was cracking on the front of the cab over, but they wouldn't cover it. Plus the crack that went diagonally from driver side slide up to the top of the seam. I had to reglass it. But eventually going to put in plates inside and out. See pic. Looking down from the roof. Also still having water leaks, with heavy rain. Floor water stained on pass slide, and water coming out on the hand grab handle next to windshield. Gets me sick just talking about it. Looks and sounds like Lack of Q.C. at that plant still.
Man, that is ugly.... and a damn shame.

I think I could take a reasonable guess of what happened in your case. After they worked on a better attachment betweem the front cap and the house walls, it created another problem.... this one cause by the size and weight of the full wall slide.

Since that cracked at the top and on the house side of the front cap attachment point, I would say the weight of the slide cause the problem. Most of the weight on that slide is on the bottom. When the slide is out, the slide is going to want to naturally tilt down because the very outside is unsupported. That puts a lot of pressure on the top of the slide.

With the front cap more securely attached a stress crack occurened from the top of the slide putting a lot of pressure on the front left corner when the slide is extended.

The full wall side is another bad design because of the lack of vertical wall support on that side along with the weight.

I agree that a metal plate running front the slide mount to the front cab on both sides would help the situtation..... but that is a major renovation.
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