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Old 10-31-2020, 09:34 PM   #61
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Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
But when you shorten the hose: you can always add a fitting to the new end...
That is a fitting statement.

Not sure I would ever need the male end though? I have a few around the hose but they are 5/8" I guess for $6 - $10 bucks I can find one, but I can't think of when I would use. It is not like I plan to connect another hose and dump in one of my neighbor's toilets

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Old 10-31-2020, 10:27 PM   #62
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But it does give you the option of sealing one end to the other...
No muss: no fuss!
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Old 10-31-2020, 10:42 PM   #63
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Please say you weren't filling your fw tank & flushing the black tank with the same hose?????
Why?
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Old 10-31-2020, 11:05 PM   #64
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We always leave the stopper in the bathroom sink, pulled out a bit for a little vent...when draining the black tank...and, when the black tank is empty, I flush the toilet and run the water from the bathroom sink as an addl flush out of the black tank.
Those of us who have Axis 24.1 know how easy it is to dump the black tank !
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Old 10-31-2020, 11:47 PM   #65
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But it does give you the option of sealing one end to the other...
No muss: no fuss!
to seal wouldn't you have to bring the female side into the house or take the male side out of the house?

In my case I would opt to bring the male side out of the house. Then choice to seal or let it all drain out. I would rather start rolling up the female side forcing all of the ther flushed fresh water to drain out in the lawn with any inert natural ingredients that may persist to fertilize the lawn or kill fire ants When wrapped on cart it will have a month or two to air dry before I use it again.

I may not cut the the 100' hose, but I don't see the need or advantage to seal with female end given it is on a cart reel?

My problem at this point appears to be power. I am not sure the water pump connector will allow me 20 amps 12vdc? The water pump draws 10 amps. I can't find a fuse or breaker for water pump. I don't want to damage my water pump electrical for jet-flo macerator. At the moment battery charger at 50 amps or professional wiring to my wet bay appear to be my only options.
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Old 11-01-2020, 12:05 AM   #66
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Why?
You really need to ask?
Are you new to rving?
Fresh water tank you drink, black water is that water after it's passed through your kidneys &/or bowels, personally don't want them mixed for drinking.
Do you store your drinking water hose & your stinky slinky in the same container? NO WAY would I do that!!!!! Separate containers separated from one another ONLY.
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Old 11-01-2020, 12:12 AM   #67
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Amen!
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Old 11-01-2020, 01:59 AM   #68
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Our macerator actually has a hose attachment on it. You basically plug a fresh water hose into it and run clean water into the pump for flushing. If you get everything drained flushing the hose is as simple as just letting the fresh water run for a few minutes after to clear the waste hose.
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Old 11-01-2020, 03:39 AM   #69
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Our macerator actually has a hose attachment on it. You basically plug a fresh water hose into it and run clean water into the pump for flushing. If you get everything drained flushing the hose is as simple as just letting the fresh water run for a few minutes after to clear the waste hose.
You have the Jet - Flow? That is what I purchased and expect to receive next week. It has the hose attachment as well.

That was the point I was making earlier with this statement.

In my case I would opt to bring the male side out of the house. Then choice to seal or let it all drain out. I would rather start rolling up the female side forcing all of the ther flushed fresh water to drain out in the lawn with any inert natural ingredients that may persist to fertilize the lawn or kill fire ants When wrapped on cart it will have a month or two to air dry before I use it again.

I was making statement as to whether or not I really needed a male end if I were to cut my hose ( which likely will do )

Yes I would rinse through macerator and even flush the toilet before taking the male end out of the house. But once outside versus sealing the male end when the female end, in my case I will wrap the female end on my hose cart reel and roll it up. As it rolls up the remaining fresh water with run into lawn. My cart has little hose end holder that will prop up the male end or in my case the cutoff end. It can get air or maybe even completely dry out before I use it again?
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Old 11-01-2020, 04:41 AM   #70
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I just use the RV until the black tank is full. Then I park it in Bob Denman’s driveway and go buy a new one.
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Old 11-01-2020, 12:14 PM   #71
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This is why you should sanitize hose bibs prior to connecting your fresh water hose

Even if the previous camper used separate hoses for potable and blank tank flush the last hose to be attached would likely have been the black tank flush

Quote:
Originally Posted by Travelin' Texans View Post
You really need to ask?
Are you new to rving?
Fresh water tank you drink, black water is that water after it's passed through your kidneys &/or bowels, personally don't want them mixed for drinking.
Do you store your drinking water hose & your stinky slinky in the same container? NO WAY would I do that!!!!! Separate containers separated from one another ONLY.
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Old 11-01-2020, 12:37 PM   #72
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I just use the RV until the black tank is full. Then I park it in Bob Denman’s driveway and go buy a new one.
I want to see you walk away from your first Newmar...
But sign the Title over to me first!
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Old 11-01-2020, 03:21 PM   #73
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Amen!
WE agree with you 100% Bob....keep it clean ! no issues !
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Old 11-01-2020, 03:56 PM   #74
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This is why you should sanitize hose bibs prior to connecting your fresh water hose

Even if the previous camper used separate hoses for potable and blank tank flush the last hose to be attached would likely have been the black tank flush
You raise excellent point. Thus far when at a campsite it has always been for the black tank flushing and we use their hose when available but most of the time I connect my 25' sewer hose.

Any recommendations on what you use to sanitize the hose bibs? Some spray some sani wipe etc. Maybe I can make a solution of Bleach and water 5 to 1 and put in spray bottle?
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Old 11-01-2020, 04:01 PM   #75
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Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
I want to see you walk away from your first Newmar...
But sign the Title over to me first!
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Old 11-01-2020, 04:21 PM   #76
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Oops...
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Old 11-01-2020, 04:22 PM   #77
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I don't even mind dumping your black tank drippings into my sewer...
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Old 11-01-2020, 04:37 PM   #78
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My problem at this point appears to be power. I am not sure the water pump connector will allow me 20 amps 12vdc? The water pump draws 10 amps. I can't find a fuse or breaker for water pump. I don't want to damage my water pump electrical for jet-flo macerator. At the moment battery charger at 50 amps or professional wiring to my wet bay appear to be my only options.
After more research, I believe the Water Pump is on a circuit that shares the Lamp that is also in the same wet bay? My 12vdc is on resettable breakers inside the RV; so no automotive fuses, and no easy way to unless shorting the line feeding the water pump

So as far as power to the Jet Flo goes, I am still looking at lots of options
1. Connect to female plug that supplies water pump. Maybe replace the Jet-Flo 20 amp fuse with a 15 amp fuse ?
2. Use Battery charger on 50 amp setting
3. Research a new electric 12 vdc power source that can handle 20 amps?
4. Go to walmart and buy the cheapest 12v battery on the shelf
5. Go with Alligator clamp on positive post of generator and clamp ground on frame. May use car cables as I already have them
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Old 11-01-2020, 04:44 PM   #79
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If the complaints are that theyre popping the 20 amp fuse, switching to a 15 amp fuse is going to make the fuse problem worse. Its already drawing more power then the 20 amp can handle. The only way it would lessen the fuse popping is to put in a 30 with risk of hurting what its protecting. The fuse doesnt decide amperage. The fuse just limits the circuit to that amount of amperage.
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Old 11-01-2020, 05:34 PM   #80
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If the complaints are that theyre popping the 20 amp fuse, switching to a 15 amp fuse is going to make the fuse problem worse. Its already drawing more power then the 20 amp can handle. The only way it would lessen the fuse popping is to put in a 30 with risk of hurting what its protecting. The fuse doesnt decide amperage. The fuse just limits the circuit to that amount of amperage.
I thought they were popping at 20 amps because the impeller was sticking / binding or something? So solution has been to use screwdriver to break free and loosen? For as infrequent as I will use, this is no big deal for me to do each time; especially since it is in the manual as precaution.

I do not own one yet (Next Tuesday) but I am thinking that I will squirt a little little liquid wrench in addition to turning with screwdriver? I am not saying this is going to be my solution, but it is an option to try. In my case it is low risk because I have resettable 12vdc breakers, I would rather trip the breaker like this if it does go over 15 amps versus purposely shorting the circuit?

FWIW, I would NEVER go with a larger rated fuse. That is not an option for me. I only would test dropping to 15 amps because I have reason to believe the RV breaker for circuit may be 15 amps? It is small chance the RV is 20 but unless I call Winnebago I cannot be sure. My wiring diagrams for Electrical does not clarify this open question.
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