I have too much free time this summer due to crazy gas prices so aside from studying how everyone is caring for their rigs it seemed only right I might try my hand at caring for the oxidized gel coat on my 17 year old rig. Not terrible but still had white fingers when I ran them on the surfaces.
It seemed there are more product opinions and suggestions than I might have guessed but I went with Meguire's RV and Marine oxidation remover. A little expensive for my budget but if it works well then a good buy. I'm a glutton for punishment it seems so armed with a stack of old rags and two ladders I set out to restore the beast to it's '05 glossy luster (hopefully.)
I started on the passenger side which had faded cracked decals and seemed much worse than the driver side. I don't have any power equipment to use so all done by hand. I have nothing but positive results to report on this product. I did a small area at a time and worked my way from rear to front. I'll post some images soon as it's all complete.
I also had noticed months ago that age had produced water spots on all the coach windows that are really stubborn and nothing I tried removed them. I had a thought today and tried this stuff on small spot on a window and viola! No more water spots! Made them look new again. A little circular rubbing and they were gone. All that's left are sore arms and hands.
I'm undecided on what wax to use when it's all de-oxidized but still open to suggestions.
I have too much free time this summer due to crazy gas prices so aside from studying how everyone is caring for their rigs it seemed only right I might try my hand at caring for the oxidized gel coat on my 17 year old rig. Not terrible but still had white fingers when I ran them on the surfaces.
It seemed there are more product opinions and suggestions than I might have guessed but I went with Meguire's RV and Marine oxidation remover. A little expensive for my budget but if it works well then a good buy. I'm a glutton for punishment it seems so armed with a stack of old rags and two ladders I set out to restore the beast to it's '05 glossy luster (hopefully.)
I started on the passenger side which had faded cracked decals and seemed much worse than the driver side. I don't have any power equipment to use so all done by hand. I have nothing but positive results to report on this product. I did a small area at a time and worked my way from rear to front. I'll post some images soon as it's all complete.
I also had noticed months ago that age had produced water spots on all the coach windows that are really stubborn and nothing I tried removed them. I had a thought today and tried this stuff on small spot on a window and viola! No more water spots! Made them look new again. A little circular rubbing and they were gone. All that's left are sore arms and hands.
I'm undecided on what wax to use when it's all de-oxidized but still open to suggestions.
See pictures help to confirm. But sounds like you have done the hard part. Don't stop at #49 go to #59 to wax & protect.
Thought I'd share my project in case someone else with an older rig has a similar situation. One side of my rig looks very good with decals in tact and as suggested I'll get some 303 to hopefully keep them spiffy looking. The other side for some reason had serious problems with just one of the colors. Kinda a dull gold color but in really bad shape. I did some research in replacing just those and talk about sticker shock? That's not gonna happen. So after watching a few YouTube videos I set out to make them look a wee bit better. The closest stock color I could find was a metallic gold from the trusty Home Depot. Four coats later I think it's 90% better looking. Took me 6 hours to mask and prep and 15 minutes to apply paint. All I wanted to do was wax the beast but it has turned into a restoration project for sure.
Anyway the total cost was around $40 for paint tape and supplies. Nothing better than the original decal of course but from a distance doesn't look bad at all. Not perfect by acceptable to me.
I'm one small section away from finishing the de-oxidation torture thing then as per Dkoldman suggested I ordered up some #59 to do it again. This reminds me a lot of my old boat as time goes on.
A few tips:
Go to Harbor Freight and get their lowest priced variable speed polisher... I got one that uses Velcro. Get a few of the wool polishing pads - use with the oxidation remover - your arms will thank you!
Note that the oxidation remover has a mineral oil base for workability. It also imparts a shine... which fools you - it looks shiny even though there may still be oxidation there. Research YouTube on marine/boat gelcoat oxidation removal.
I called Meguiars "help line" and a tech recommended their flagship marine wax. It's supposed to be their "best"... but I used their Pure Wax before with excellent results. As per dkoldman, I also previously used 303 on the decals. According to the Meguiars tech, he said the wax is fine on the vinyl decals. I just completely waxed our MH last week, and waxed right over my decals. I will post a future update on the results...
Meguiar's Flagship Premium Marine Wax, Boat Wax and Polish, 32 Fl. Oz https://a.co/d/8TFqlel
P.S. Use the 303 on any rubber - window seals, storage compartment seals, etc. I even use it on my tires. Great stuff.
BTW the paint over the cracked decal looks awesome... quite an improvement!
__________________
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Thanks for the tips. You're so right about sore arms also hands fingers legs and back. I'll check out the polisher at HF too. I ordered the Meguire's pure wax as suggested also the 303. I've now got a full large box of specialty products to keep our beast shiny watertight well powered well lit comfy and my list is getting pretty extensive. Maybe I'll post it one of these days to help an RV rookie plan his restoration project. As always thanks guys.:
Every few months I use Meguiar's Hybrid Ceramic Wax it's easy to put on and lasts much longer than any pure wax. I tried that spray and forgot, or whatever it was called on my awning, spray and close the awning for 10 minutes and rinse the awning. My awning is spotless, but that spray is very strong, after rising the water beaded up like I had just put it on. Meguiar's makes great products
Finally finishing up my "project" to spiff up the ole gal. I have learned a bit of knowledge to share should there be any die hard purists when it comes to shiny rides. I followed up my Meguiar's 49 oxidation removal treatment with Meguiar's 56 Pure wax. There seemed to be some disagreement about using wax on decals from previous posts. I included a pic of the instructions for the wax for reference to anyone interested. As you can see they specifically state not for vinyl or rubber. I also stumbled on something interesting about the decals on our rvs. They all seem to be made by 3M. Who knew? Anyway I've attached the pdf from 3m on care and maintenance.
I used 303 on the decals and seems to brighten them a little. Still not great but maybe they'll last a little longer.
Finally finishing up my "project" to spiff up the ole gal. I have learned a bit of knowledge to share should there be any die hard purists when it comes to shiny rides. I followed up my Meguiar's 49 oxidation removal treatment with Meguiar's 56 Pure wax. There seemed to be some disagreement about using wax on decals from previous posts. I included a pic of the instructions for the wax for reference to anyone interested. As you can see they specifically state not for vinyl or rubber. I also stumbled on something interesting about the decals on our rvs. They all seem to be made by 3M. Who knew? Anyway I've attached the pdf from 3m on care and maintenance.
I used 303 on the decals and seems to brighten them a little. Still not great but maybe they'll last a little longer.
Maybe not that one but the one I showed above. Meguiar's says it's fine for stripes
Finally finishing up my "project" to spiff up the ole gal. I have learned a bit of knowledge to share should there be any die hard purists when it comes to shiny rides. I followed up my Meguiar's 49 oxidation removal treatment with Meguiar's 56 Pure wax. There seemed to be some disagreement about using wax on decals from previous posts. I included a pic of the instructions for the wax for reference to anyone interested. As you can see they specifically state not for vinyl or rubber. I also stumbled on something interesting about the decals on our rvs. They all seem to be made by 3M. Who knew? Anyway I've attached the pdf from 3m on care and maintenance.
I used 303 on the decals and seems to brighten them a little. Still not great but maybe they'll last a little longer.
I like a man that is all in.
I never put wax on my decals (not intentionally anyway). It will eventually catch up with those that do, but I not a salesman; to each his own. I will say this, I can concur with those that may use wax as opposed to doing nothing at all. But my view is, if you gonna go through the trouble to wax a RV, why not take 10 minutes and properly treat the damn decals
I have similar argument or beef with pressure washers, I was really glad to see your article from 3M. I have very nice pressure washer and I use it for all kinds of stuff including the cars, but NEVER on the RV
Maybe not that one but the one I showed above. Meguiar's says it's fine for stripes
It would be essentially impossible to NOT get wax on pin stripes. I certainly don't mask decals before waxing. Sure some wax will get on the edges of regular decals. But I do try my best to avoid it I certainly NEVER use a polisher anywhere near the decals or stripes.
It would be essentially impossible to NOT get wax on pin stripes. I certainly don't mask decals before waxing. Sure some wax will get on the edges of regular decals. But I do try my best to avoid it I certainly NEVER use a polisher anywhere near the decals or stripes.
I don't use wax it's a polymer from what I've heard
Just one small area to wax then I'm done. What a project
I think next time I will give Bill's method with the Meguiar's Hybrid Ceramic Wax. Looks to me much easier than the pure wax although I'm pleased with the results a spray on product that is ok on decals will save a lot of time and effort.
Just one small area to wax then I'm done. What a project
I think next time I will give Bill's method with the Meguiar's Hybrid Ceramic Wax. Looks to me much easier than the pure wax although I'm pleased with the results a spray on product that is ok on decals will save a lot of time and effort.
Usually wax shines more, but doesn't last. wax is highly functional when it comes to protecting the paint from contaminants and gives a great natural shine to the paint. But it will only last maximum of two months. Polymer sealants can last longer than six months because they chemically bond with the paint.
Just one small area to wax then I'm done. What a project
I think next time I will give Bill's method with the Meguiar's Hybrid Ceramic Wax. Looks to me much easier than the pure wax although I'm pleased with the results a spray on product that is ok on decals will save a lot of time and effort.
I tried ceramic wax on my RV roof and cars. For what I am used to it just was dull and I don't buy stronger, I had leaves stain on the roof 2 weeks after applying. The only thing I got as advertised was slippery and yes very easy to apply. But I can do that with a detailer's or wax spray. It is just like waxing decals, of course you can do, and of course it is better than nothing.
In the end game if 5 hours and work is too much, ceramic spray is an option, I think it is best to try to see for yourself, that is what I did, but I was afraid to put on my RV's automotive like finish, I am glad I didn't. If I don't want to use real wax, I will stick with the detailers and spray wax that I use to clean spots.
I can't speak to everyone's RV and the state from which it was when waxed, but I can easily go 6 months before a wax is needed. I wax around March and again around September. No oxidation yet. I suspect if you have previously experienced oxidation, it may not last that long.
Remember I am the guy that has RV parked outside, under tree every day in heat and sun approaching 4 years. I can pull into any RV Dealership's make ready department and put them to shame In fact, in a rush, I can simply rinse and dry with clean cotton towel (not microfiber) and the shine will blow you away.
I tried ceramic wax on my RV roof and cars. For what I am used to it just was dull and I don't buy stronger, I had leaves stain on the roof 2 weeks after applying. The only thing I got as advertised was slippery and yes very easy to apply. But I can do that with a detailer's or wax spray. It is just like waxing decals, of course you can do, and of course it is better than nothing.
In the end game if 5 hours and work is too much, ceramic spray is an option, I think it is best to try to see for yourself, that is what I did, but I was afraid to put on my RV's automotive like finish, I am glad I didn't. If I don't want to use real wax, I will stick with the detailers and spray wax that I use to clean spots.
I can't speak to everyone's RV and the state from which it was when waxed, but I can easily go 6 months before a wax is needed. I wax around March and again around September. No oxidation yet. I suspect if you have previously experienced oxidation, it may not last that long.
Remember I am the guy that has RV parked outside, under tree every day in heat and sun approaching 4 years. I can pull into any RV Dealership's make ready department and put them to shame In fact, in a rush, I can simply rinse and dry with clean cotton towel (not microfiber) and the shine will blow you away.
When you say wax, what are you actually using, brand name. Read the article from Jay Leno garage on wax vs polymer like ceramic. 100 percent wax isn't 100 percent it's mixed with other things. Every website I went to says wax Never lasts as long sometimes weeks if left outside
When you say wax, what are you actually using, brand name. Read the article from Jay Leno garage on wax vs polymer like ceramic. 100 percent wax isn't 100 percent it's mixed with other things. Every website I went to says wax Never lasts as long sometimes weeks if left outside
There's a whole science behind how fiberglass/gelcoat reacts to ultraviolet radiation vs automotive paint topped with clear coat. A fiberglass/gelcoat RV is closer (almost identical) to boats and marine watercraft than passenger cars and trucks.
Gelcoat oxidation is a completely different animal on fiberglass than it is with paint/clear coat. A flat non-glossy paint won't necessarily oxidize... but a flat finish on gelcoat is a sitting duck for absorbing UV... and will turn chalky white in no time.
Most waxes formulated for gelcoat serve two functions... sealing the surface AND impart a gloss to reflect the sun's UV radiation - which is the major culprit for gelcoat oxidation. Eventually the wax breaks down and the gloss deteriorates leaving the gelcoat exposed.
My personal experience with "off the shelf" ceramic spray is that it is MUCH easier to apply, and leaves a VERY slick finish. The caveat I found was it DID NOT impart any additional gloss that wasn't already there. Therefore the slightly less glossy areas oxidized at a much faster rate than where gloss existed.
My takeaway was that to prevent oxidation, the surface MUST be free of existing oxidation, AND polished to a high shine. I have found that applying a good coat of marine wax has staved off oxidation much better than the Turtle Wax ceramic I tried. But that's just my experience with one product.
After the work required in restoring my gelcoat to "better than factory", I'm hesitant to experiment further. I've watched so many "how to restore gelcoat" videos I could puke! That's just MY experience... your results with different products and methods may vary considerably.
When you say wax, what are you actually using, brand name. Read the article from Jay Leno garage on wax vs polymer like ceramic. 100 percent wax isn't 100 percent it's mixed with other things. Every website I went to says wax Never lasts as long sometimes weeks if left outside
I use Meguiar's products, but will buy Turtle Wax products in split second especially their detailing sprays. But for specific Waxing I use Meguiars Pure RV & Boat Wash.
I am gonna to defer the rest to my designated Chemist Chateau Nomad. I like Jay Leno but he has never saved me any money; I am sticking with the Chateau Guy. Jay Leno just buys a new car if the finish goes pad or if some bird poops on it.
My wax last 6 months, lots of pictures to prove it all over this site. 10 hours of work per year and that includes wax the fiber glass roof.
If you like, when I get back home, I have RV Fiberglass Cleaning and Care guide from Filon Composite. I can upload it. It specifically calls out Meguiars Pure RV and Boat Wax as recommended.
BEFORE I bought my RV, I had my Fiberglass Care plan put together, if when my RV goes dull, oxidized and/or with cracked decals, my RV will go up for sale.
There's a whole science behind how fiberglass/gelcoat reacts to ultraviolet radiation vs automotive paint topped with clear coat. A fiberglass/gelcoat RV is closer (almost identical) to boats and marine watercraft than passenger cars and trucks.
Gelcoat oxidation is a completely different animal on fiberglass than it is with paint/clear coat. A flat non-glossy paint won't necessarily oxidize... but a flat finish on gelcoat is a sitting duck for absorbing UV... and will turn chalky white in no time.
Most waxes formulated for gelcoat serve two functions... sealing the surface AND impart a gloss to reflect the sun's UV radiation - which is the major culprit for gelcoat oxidation. Eventually the wax breaks down and the gloss deteriorates leaving the gelcoat exposed.
My personal experience with "off the shelf" ceramic spray is that it is MUCH easier to apply, and leaves a VERY slick finish. The caveat I found was it DID NOT impart any additional gloss that wasn't already there. Therefore the slightly less glossy areas oxidized at a much faster rate than where gloss existed.
My takeaway was that to prevent oxidation, the surface MUST be free of existing oxidation, AND polished to a high shine. I have found that applying a good coat of marine wax has staved off oxidation much better than the Turtle Wax ceramic I tried. But that's just my experience with one product.
After the work required in restoring my gelcoat to "better than factory", I'm hesitant to experiment further. I've watched so many "how to restore gelcoat" videos I could puke! That's just MY experience... your results with different products and methods may vary considerably.
Well said.
If I ever see any signs of oxidation, I will come to you for help. In the meantime, my focus is keeping a good solid coat of wax on to prevent the oxidation from occurring. I am 6 weeks away from my fall wax I can't wait...
I conclude with famous words, Quality is fitness for use. It is not a one size fits all, but it is good to hear and learn of all things. My RV is 4 years old, kept outside under tree, and I will drive up to any RV Dealer side by side any RV. My RV was stored inside at a Dealer in Florida and the roof and the sides all shine and are protected better.
There's a whole science behind how fiberglass/gelcoat reacts to ultraviolet radiation vs automotive paint topped with clear coat. A fiberglass/gelcoat RV is closer (almost identical) to boats and marine watercraft than passenger cars and trucks.
Gelcoat oxidation is a completely different animal on fiberglass than it is with paint/clear coat. A flat non-glossy paint won't necessarily oxidize... but a flat finish on gelcoat is a sitting duck for absorbing UV... and will turn chalky white in no time.
Most waxes formulated for gelcoat serve two functions... sealing the surface AND impart a gloss to reflect the sun's UV radiation - which is the major culprit for gelcoat oxidation. Eventually the wax breaks down and the gloss deteriorates leaving the gelcoat exposed.
My personal experience with "off the shelf" ceramic spray is that it is MUCH easier to apply, and leaves a VERY slick finish. The caveat I found was it DID NOT impart any additional gloss that wasn't already there. Therefore the slightly less glossy areas oxidized at a much faster rate than where gloss existed.
My takeaway was that to prevent oxidation, the surface MUST be free of existing oxidation, AND polished to a high shine. I have found that applying a good coat of marine wax has staved off oxidation much better than the Turtle Wax ceramic I tried. But that's just my experience with one product.
After the work required in restoring my gelcoat to "better than factory", I'm hesitant to experiment further. I've watched so many "how to restore gelcoat" videos I could puke! That's just MY experience... your results with different products and methods may vary considerably.
I was talking pure wax. The articles state that pure wax sits on top of the surface and doesn't bond to it like all polymers. I bet that all the (waxes) the people are using are mixed with other chemicals to make them last longer reflect uv rays and last longer on the surface. In 1969 I needed to wax my orange/red 69 Charger every few weeks. The wax made it glow in the sun. But I switched when the new products came out and they lasted much longer. I'm in my 70s and I'm not going to wax a dozen times a year. I use car soap and everything comes off, black streaks everything. When I got my first motorhome it was very hard to get any of the streaks off, not now
I was talking pure wax. The articles state that pure wax sits on top of the surface and doesn't bond to it like all polymers. I bet that all the (waxes) the people are using are mixed with other chemicals to make them last longer reflect uv rays and last longer on the surface. In 1969 I needed to wax my orange/red 69 Charger every few weeks. The wax made it glow in the sun. But I switched when the new products came out and they lasted much longer. I'm in my 70s and I'm not going to wax a dozen times a year. I use car soap and everything comes off, black streaks everything. When I got my first motorhome it was very hard to get any of the streaks off, not now
Note: I am not trying to change anybody from what they do, Just saying what I have done for 4 years and what the RV looks like. I didn't hire a chemist to review the Meguiars Pure Wax #56, but Filon Composites did I have a seen a lot of RVs with ugly finishes and decals including full body paint. I have been a car wash fanatic all my life, where I grew none of the kids ever had dirty cars, we washed them in the rain and I am not joking. They may not have always started but they were clean
I tried the ceramic wax, I just didn't like it. But it was cool to watch your keys slide off the hood.
There could be 100 better options, but maybe you might see why I am satisfied with what I am doing? I have done it for 4 years, I wish to see how long this finish last. You might say, I am on a mission to prove, that RVs do not EVER have to oxidize, we don't have to pay $350/mo inside storage, use covers, keep away from sun and UV light; we just need to take care of them. Starting November I will be working on Year 5
I can't wait...
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