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Old 04-19-2019, 04:04 PM   #101
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Originally Posted by russncath View Post
So, a smoother ride? Or just less swaying side to side, as some are saying?...I am looking for a smoother ride, and dont want to spend the $700-800 they want for Sumo's up here in Canada, if the ride is not somewhat smoother!....
Sumo do increase the total spring stiffness; however, they do replace the coach's harsh bump stops. The apparent ride over very rough sections of highway is much improved. Minor road imperfections are slightly amplified. They do reduce the coach sway significantly. Only softer, variable rate springs will help the coach's ride quality.
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Old 04-19-2019, 04:09 PM   #102
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Originally Posted by Beau388 View Post
Sumo do increase the total spring stiffness; however, they do replace the coach's harsh bump stops. The apparent ride over very rough sections of highway is much improved. Minor road imperfections are slightly amplified. They do reduce the coach sway significantly. Only softer, variable rate springs will help the coach's ride quality.


I agree they help the ride a little. Really helps with the sway. I have the two piece type on the front only.
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Old 04-19-2019, 04:36 PM   #103
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Originally Posted by jannnda View Post
I agree they help the ride a little. Really helps with the sway. I have the two piece type on the front only.
Iím curious why you only installed the Sumoís up front. We have a 2018 ACE 30.4 and Iím looking to add Sumo springs to even out the ride a bit. Front and rear or just front?

Thanks,
Tim
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Old 04-19-2019, 04:45 PM   #104
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Indiana woes

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Originally Posted by Bobbyd00 View Post
....Just wish Indiana would pave their roads...
Don't hold your breath. We drive the route between our homes in TN and IL and the worst roads are by far, in IN. It's amazing also, because that's the same state that has the most lane closures for construction... yet never a smooth pavement... like they are never done.
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Old 04-19-2019, 04:52 PM   #105
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Originally Posted by vegasruv24.1 View Post
I'm with you here,... I bought a 2019 29m... needs nothing...I'm almost afraid to do anything to it as it works so good...might put sumo's on the rear to help when I pull the big trailer..but it works fine as is...I get free sumo's shocks and sway bars, installed free, so if needed they get put on...
Since this is an opinion sharing forum, I will add mine on the suspension mods. If you are happy with your rig and don't want to add the mods, good. I will also add that I doubt there is one rig out there that has good alignment when you drive it off the dealer's lot. Now I am supposing there are some that aren't terrible as our first rig was but you will know in time by seeing how your front tires wear. Now, as far as the modifications go, I always remember that these are stripped chassis, produced for multiple applications so the handling varies of course. On my Axis, we added several fairly high dollar mods and we were happy with the end result. So, one size might not fit all but I do not agree that all of this is a waste of money if it makes my driving more comfortable and in the end safer.
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Old 04-19-2019, 05:00 PM   #106
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Originally Posted by tgsmith4845 View Post
Iím curious why you only installed the Sumoís up front. We have a 2018 ACE 30.4 and Iím looking to add Sumo springs to even out the ride a bit. Front and rear or just front?



Thanks,

Tim

former USN Aviator


I decided to do one mod at a time. I have added the roadmaster rear sway bar and the track bar. Not sure I need the Sumoís in the rear. Going to drive it more and see. If you do front and rear please let me know what you think.
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Old 04-19-2019, 05:14 PM   #107
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Originally Posted by jannnda View Post
I decided to do one mod at a time. I have added the roadmaster rear sway bar and the track bar. Not sure I need the Sumoís in the rear. Going to drive it more and see. If you do front and rear please let me know what you think.
Ah, thanks. That makes sense. Our MH drives pretty good, but does get blown around a bit in cross windy conditions. I normally pull a 24í 6000# dual axle race car trailer which doesnít help. So far, Iíve done the CHF front and rear. Just installed a rear trac bar to see if that helps with tail wag. Ordered a set of Sumo two piece springs for the front. Will install them this weekend, along with a set of extended sway bar drop links to better align the sway bar geometry. Driving to a race next weekend and will report out after that.

Tim
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Old 04-19-2019, 05:15 PM   #108
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I installed Sumo front only for a better ride and less sway. Remember you are sitting just above that front tire, as far as the rear Sumos, Im not back there and dont feel the sway and bumps like in the front, however it is recomended that you do both.
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Old 04-19-2019, 05:20 PM   #109
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Originally Posted by tgsmith4845 View Post
Ah, thanks. That makes sense. Our MH drives pretty good, but does get blown around a bit in cross windy conditions. I normally pull a 24í 6000# dual axle race car trailer which doesnít help. So far, Iíve done the CHF front and rear. Just installed a rear trac bar to see if that helps with tail wag. Ordered a set of Sumo two piece springs for the front. Will install them this weekend, along with a set of extended sway bar drop links to better align the sway bar geometry. Driving to a race next weekend and will report out after that.



Tim


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I also added these to my hitch. Very surprised at how much tail wag they took out. Had a lot of play in my hitch that allowed my toad to ping from side to side. Not anymore!!
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Old 04-21-2019, 11:42 PM   #110
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CHF and Links

So, I just got my new (to me) Thor 27.2 ACE. I got under it today, thinking I could do the CHF. This was the front bar. However, the links are about 2" short to connect with the proximal (inboard) hole on the stock sway bar. I saw on a forum that I could get Hellwig 7962 adjustable links. They're about $125. Here's my questions:

Is the CHF essentially equivalent to putting on a new sway bar? The Roadmaster is $500+. If it's better, I'll put out the cash for that rather than spend less and have less improved results.

Is the situation the same for the rear links?

I plan to put on a track bar and SafeTPlus stabilizer as well. I was hoping that the CHF, steering stabilizer, and track bar would significantly improve things.

Rich Guess
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Old 04-22-2019, 12:27 AM   #111
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Originally Posted by richguess1946 View Post
So, I just got my new (to me) Thor 27.2 ACE. I got under it today, thinking I could do the CHF. This was the front bar. However, the links are about 2" short to connect with the proximal (inboard) hole on the stock sway bar. I saw on a forum that I could get Hellwig 7962 adjustable links. They're about $125. Here's my questions:

Is the CHF essentially equivalent to putting on a new sway bar? The Roadmaster is $500+. If it's better, I'll put out the cash for that rather than spend less and have less improved results.

Is the situation the same for the rear links?

I plan to put on a track bar and SafeTPlus stabilizer as well. I was hoping that the CHF, steering stabilizer, and track bar would significantly improve things.

Rich Guess
In my opinion, I think the stock sway bar on the ACEís should be enough. Itís pretty beefy.

To do the CHF, you need to rotate the front end of the sway bar up so the stock drop link can reach the proximal hole. The sway bars are designed to twist (torque) within their bushings in the mounts to the chassis, but sometimes the bushings are pretty stiff. You might need to loosen the mount bolts on each side to rotate the sway bar up, or use a jack to help them up. After you rotate the sway bar and put the drop links in the proximal holes, you do lose optimal geometry between the sways and the drops links. Ideally, these should be orthogonal (perpendicular) to each other for maximum sway bar effectively. Thatís where the adjustable/longer Hellwig 7962 links come in. The longer link will allow you to connect to the proximal hole on the sway bar and still maintain the 90 degrees difference between the two. Remember to connect the links to the sway bay with the MH weight on the wheels, and ensure there is no pre-load (torque) on the bar.

I just installed the Hellwigs up front and am happy with the setup. The rear sways with the CHF seem ok, so Iíll leave them for now.

Tim
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Old 04-22-2019, 02:06 AM   #112
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Chf

Thx Tim. From your reply, removing the stock links and replacing them with the Hellwigs would mean no adjustment in the bar itself? Also, donít have the leveling jacks down, but rather have the full weight on the tires.

O/W itís simple bolt on bolt off. For the rears, just move the stock links to the proximal opening.

Do you know any torque numbers? You Tube thought 65lbs.

Rich
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Old 04-22-2019, 03:04 AM   #113
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Originally Posted by richguess1946 View Post
Thx Tim. From your reply, removing the stock links and replacing them with the Hellwigs would mean no adjustment in the bar itself? Also, donít have the leveling jacks down, but rather have the full weight on the tires.

O/W itís simple bolt on bolt off. For the rears, just move the stock links to the proximal opening.

Do you know any torque numbers? You Tube thought 65lbs.

Rich
Hi Rich,

With the longer Hellwig links you may still need to rotate the sway a bit, but not as much.

Yes, when you connect the drop links, make sure the weight is on the wheels, not on the jacks. You need zero torque on the sway bar when itís level, not moving. Thatís another nice part of the Hellwigs, you can adjust the length of each of them individually to ensure thereís no pre-load (torque) on the sway bar when you connect the drop links.

I donít know the torque, but 65 ft-lbs sounds good.

Where in CA are you? Weíre up in the SF Bay Area.

Tim
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Old 04-22-2019, 12:19 PM   #114
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Suspension

Thx Tim. Newport Beach. Daughter in Castro Valley.
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Old 04-22-2019, 03:24 PM   #115
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Thx Tim. Newport Beach. Daughter in Castro Valley.
Rich,
You wouldn't be Dr Guess from Downey??

Jerry
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Old 04-22-2019, 03:27 PM   #116
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Originally Posted by richguess1946 View Post
So, I just got my new (to me) Thor 27.2 ACE. I got under it today, thinking I could do the CHF. This was the front bar. However, the links are about 2" short to connect with the proximal (inboard) hole on the stock sway bar. I saw on a forum that I could get Hellwig 7962 adjustable links. They're about $125. Here's my questions:



Is the CHF essentially equivalent to putting on a new sway bar? The Roadmaster is $500+. If it's better, I'll put out the cash for that rather than spend less and have less improved results.



Is the situation the same for the rear links?



I plan to put on a track bar and SafeTPlus stabilizer as well. I was hoping that the CHF, steering stabilizer, and track bar would significantly improve things.



Rich Guess
Yes they will improve your ride a lot

Jerry
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Old 04-22-2019, 03:31 PM   #117
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Originally Posted by richguess1946 View Post
Thx Tim. From your reply, removing the stock links and replacing them with the Hellwigs would mean no adjustment in the bar itself? Also, donít have the leveling jacks down, but rather have the full weight on the tires.



O/W itís simple bolt on bolt off. For the rears, just move the stock links to the proximal opening.



Do you know any torque numbers? You Tube thought 65lbs.



Rich
66ft lbs torque per Ford specs

Jerry
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Old 04-22-2019, 04:31 PM   #118
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Travels on the road

My wife and I are leaving tomorrow from So. Calif to Florida stopping along the way at various sites and then off to Kentucky, Oklahoma and back to So. Calif. Plan on being on the road 4-6 weeks in our 2018 Thor Siesta. This will be our first long trip. We have only been on weekend type trips working out the systems in the motor home while learning on the way. Bought the motor home in March 2018. Added Sumo Springs and the Equalizer Hydraulic Leveling System. I also added a spare tire carrier (hitch mount) with a spare tire/rim.
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Old 04-22-2019, 04:54 PM   #119
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Suspension

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66ft lbs torque per Ford specs

Jerry
Yup.
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Old 04-22-2019, 05:16 PM   #120
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Originally Posted by richguess1946 View Post
So, I just got my new (to me) Thor 27.2 ACE. I got under it today, thinking I could do the CHF. This was the front bar. However, the links are about 2" short to connect with the proximal (inboard) hole on the stock sway bar. I saw on a forum that I could get Hellwig 7962 adjustable links. They're about $125. Here's my questions:



Is the CHF essentially equivalent to putting on a new sway bar? The Roadmaster is $500+. If it's better, I'll put out the cash for that rather than spend less and have less improved results.



Is the situation the same for the rear links?



I plan to put on a track bar and SafeTPlus stabilizer as well. I was hoping that the CHF, steering stabilizer, and track bar would significantly improve things.



Rich Guess
Rich,
I can help you with all this. Have all the tools. Just let me know

Jerry
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